Classic twills have 45 degree diagonals: their diagonals may reverse, they may even break, but as long as the warp and weft are woven at the same sett, they always run straight, at a 45 degree angle to both warp and weft.
Undulating twills break away from the standard 45 degree diagonal by s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g (and occasionally compressing) the angle of a threading or treadling by varying amounts in different places. Their diagonal shifts from steep to shallow and back again, in swooping curves that undulate across the cloth. For extra drama, they can be combined with straight twills to heighten contrast.
Angled twills break away from the 45 degree mold by manipulating the threading to make it steeper here and shallower there. The result is complex interlacement that produces patterns and shading very different from classic twills, with straight diagonals at angles other than 45 degrees. The various angles, patterns, and shading combine into very complex looking designs – and sometimes even into curves. (This is exactly how the ubiquitous and ever-popular draft #728 from A Weaver’s Book of 8-Shaft Patterns (Strickler, ed., 1991) works.)
Skills Required: Comfortable reading drafts, including threadings, treadlings+tie-ups, liftplans, drawdowns. Basic familiarity with classic twills. Knowledge of related terminology – straight threading and treadling, twill tie-up ratios, etc. is an asset. (Glossary provided in advance for workshops.) Familiarity with drafting software.
Instructor: Janet Dawson
Duration: 3 day
When: Monday – Wednesday
Level: Beginner, Intermediate; See Skills Required in Workshop Description.
Categories: Weaving
Supplies that students will bring:
- Note taking supplies.
- Laptop or device with mouse – mouse is required! (be sure you know your password for the laptop)
- Power supply
- Extension cord
- Drafting software (Fiberworks, Draft Editor, etc.) with which you are familiar. There won’t be time to teach people how to use their software. I am familiar with Fiberworks and the Draft Editor and will be using those to demonstrate. If you want to use a different app and can translate the instructions yourself, that’s fine.
- Shaft loom (no rigid heddles). Note: you will be changing the tie-up frequently!
- Loom to be dressed with warp as instructed/provided prior to workshop
- Shuttle(s) with bobbins, all clearly marked with your name
- Consider bringing a throw rug or other padding for tying up looms
- Enough tie-up hooks/cords – more than half the shafts per treadle
- Notions: scissors (for thread or tape), measuring tape, darning needle, blue tape, Sharpie
- Release/retie supplies: Crochet hook, 2 wood slats (Available to purchase in advance)
- Various wefts to be described
- Tarp clamp temples (Available to purchase in advance)
Material Fee: $40 – $60
Materials Included: The material fee includes extensive handouts, exercises, glossary, bibliography and miscellaneous class supplies. (Bring a binder for handouts)