Join us in weaving cloth to make a Noh Coat for the 2023 ANWG Conference.

The Noh Coat challenge is based on the work of American fashion designer Bonnie Cashin. Our idea is that anyone interested will weave fabric and make the coat in time for the ANWG conference in 2023. It would be a spectacular expression of handwoven cloth. This is not a juried exhibit, but we will have some event to show off our coats at the Conference.

The challenge is to make the coat according to the pattern in Threads Magazine (Oct/Nov 1990, No.31). Cashin created many variations of what began as a basic kimono shape. The version we are making is simple and does not require great sewing skills. The coat is unlined, has one piece sleeves, bound edges, and the side seams are open from the waist down. This means that the coat is all about the quality of the handwoven cloth.

An online discussion group has been set up and many are already hard at work making muslins and sampling. In addition, a number of guilds are organizing study groups. Find more information on the website at Noh Coat Challenge.

About Cashin

Bonnie Cashin was an American mid-century fashion institution credited with introducing layering, mix-and-match, and ingenious closures and trims in American fashion. She designed costumes for Hollywood, designed women’s uniforms for the U. S. military, designed bags and gloves for Coach, designed clothes for Sills & Co., and started a knitting company.

Her practical clothes display simplicity of design, adapted to the wearer’s modern, busy, and more casual lifestyle. She wanted her clothes to be functional and comfortable. She favored highly textured fabrics, large-scale tweeds, and dramatic designs. Her designs were well suited to woven fabric and she worked with famous mid-century weavers such as Dorothy Liebes and Bernat Klein.

Presentation and Workshop Opportunity

For anyone wanting more inspiration, Dr. Susan Torntore, from the Whatcom Weavers Guild, ANWG rep, retired professor of textile history, museum curator and author, is available to give an illustrated presentation on the work of Bonnie Cashin, focusing on her two iconic garments—the Noh Coat and the poncho—and the innovative and colorful handwoven textiles used to make these in the 1950s through 1970s. Susan Torntore delivered this presentation at the Greater Vancouver Weavers and Spinners Guild in Vancouver BC in October to a rapt audience. It was the perfect beginning for those taking up the Noh Coat Challenge. Susan is available for guild presentations, and is also developing a workshop to learn more about Cashin’s Noh coat inspirations and philosophy, and explore the innovative handwoven fabrics Cashin used in her designs with fabric samples and draft ideas. Participants will be able to make the pattern and a personal “fitted” muslin, and explore binding methods. You can contact Susan at sjtorntore@gmail.com

For More Info

For more information about the challenge, to request a copy of the pattern, or to join the online discussion group, contact Toby Smith at tobysmith.3920@gmail.com or Isabelle Fusey at ifusey@telus.net. See you in 2023 in your Noh coat!

Stay updated ~~ The Weaving Guilds of Oregon steering committee is very busy planning for the upcoming ANWG Conference. Please continue to visit our website for information and conference updates. If you would like to receive information delivered to your inbox, please subscribe to the conference blog.