Lynn Baritelle and Gwendolyn Tracy, North Olympic Shuttle & Spindle, Sequim, WA
Winner: Most Innovative Garment
Name/Description: Silk Ikat “Hoodie”
Made For?: Woman
Size: M
Fabric Construction: Woven
Fabric Construction – Other:
Woven Structure: Plain weave, 4 shafts, 8 shaft Jackloom
Yarn Details and SETT: Warp: 7/3 silk from Artful Ewe. Weft: silk/linen from Trenway Silks. Sett: 15 threads per inch, (15 epi). Warp length, four meters. Starting width 25″, wet finished to 22″.
Handspun Details:
Stitches:
Special Treatments: Ikat dyed with commercial “Indigo” acid dye (Dharma acid dye).
Textile Finishing: Wet finished.
Textile Challenges: Lining up Ikat stripes, some breakages in stripes.
Garment Construction: Yes, the continuous yardage was draped on the dress form, but, thread marked, and transferred to pattern paper. The paper pattern was balances and trued and new thread marks were transferred to the cloth. The shoulders/back neck line is taped with fine cotton tailors tape for stability. The side seams and pleats are are hand sewn and tacked with a lightweight commercial silk jacquard to maintain the fluidity of the the drape, and distribute the seam load across a wider span of the weave.
Lining: Please see above.
Special Features: We intentionally left fastenings off the garment. Depending on the body type and personal preferences of the wearer, covered snaps, abalone buttons, toggle closures, etc., may be added at that time. Hem was hemstitched with weft yarns.
Pattern: Custom garment designed and fabricated by Gwendolyn Tracy at Yacht Couture.
Garment Challenges: Limited fabric. The greatest challenge was cutting the yardage. The continuous fabric was draped on the dress form prior to cutting it. There was one cut – all the yardage is in the garment. Zero scraps or waste.
