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Basic Aqua and Brown Jacket

Carole Stewart, Tacoma Weavers Guild, Seattle Weavers Guild, Burien, WA

Winner: Best Garment with Hand spun, sponsored by TWG

Name/Description: Basic Aqua and Brown Hand spun wool Jacket
Made For?: Woman
Size: M
Fabric Construction: Woven
Fabric Construction – Other:
Woven Structure:
The Jacket is a 4 shaft twill. The pattern is called “The Walls of Troy”. The weaving was done on a Baby Wolf.
Yarn Details and SETT: The weft is hand spun wool both natural brown and dyed white. Spinning and dyeing were done by me. Warp is Harrisville Shetland. The sett was 10 epi and was woven on a Baby Wolf.
Handspun Details: The yarn is 100% wool and woolen spun. The aqua was dyed with acid dyes before spinning. It was spun to be Aran weight.
Stitches: The jacket was started during a class to learn how to tailor a garment out of handwoven fabric. Standard sewing techniques were used. This was a stash busting project that used two pieces of fabric that were done on the same warp.
Special Treatments: The aqua wool was dyed by the artist with acid dyes.
Textile Finishing: The fabric was wet-finished and steam pressed before sewing.
Textile Challenges: The jacket was started during a guild workshop with Karen Gelbard, The Oregon Weaver. We went through the process of fitting and beginning construction. One of the biggest challenges has been to finish the jacket once the workshop was over.
Garment Construction: I did a moderate amount of tailoring.
Lining: The lining is a commercial rayon lining fabric. The interfacing is a light weight pellon.
Special Features: It is planned to be a simple basic jacket.
Pattern: The pattern used is KWIK SEW #3236. I modified the pattern by not using the collar and adding a cuff.
Garment Challenges: The challenge was that it is made from handspun yarn. Pressing the seams was difficult. The final pressing was done at the dry cleaners. The seams were bulky and concern for the strength of the seams. Extra top stitching was used.