Krista Richey, Eugene, Salem, Salem, OR
Name/Description: Satin Linen Damask Pants & Handmade Cottolin and Hemp Bag
Made For?: Woman
Size: M
Fabric Construction: Woven
Fabric Construction – Other:
Woven Structure: Pants: Satin Linen Damask woven on a 24 shaft compu-doby AVL; Bag: turned twill woven on 16 shafts of a 24 shaft compu-dobby AVL
Yarn Details and SETT: Pants: 16/1 linen singles warp (45 epi) and weft (32 ppi); Bag: 22/2 Cottonlin (about 24 epi) and linen 10/2 (16ppi)
Handspun Details:
Stitches:
Special Treatments:
Textile Finishing: Pants;Wet finished, hot steam iron and mangleBag: Washed in machine and dried in dryer, then hot steam ironed
Textile Challenges: Linen damask was a challenge. The sett was dense and the warp was sticky. I used sizing in the form of “Cowboy Magic”, a horse main and tail detangler that I found at Wilco, at the advice of a friend. I used lease sticks behind the warp, but still needed to take care of binding warps every few feet. I found a fair number of skipped threads on the underside of the cloth that were not seen while weaving, also most likely to the loom or the warp misbehaving. Weaving beige linen damask can be frustrating unless the light is just right to show the contrasting warp and weft faced pattern. But when the light is right, it’s just super cool!
Garment Construction: The pants feature an elastic waistband in a casing, front side seam pockets and back square back pockets. The pattern was cut so as to use the woven selvedge as the finished side leg seam and the inseam is a flat fell seam. The bag features hand sewn leather and gussets, a wooden handle and a commercial canvas lining.
Lining:
Special Features:
Pattern: Pants Pattern: Beach Pants #1600 from the Portland Fashion Institute; Bag: Original Design
Garment Challenges: Linen damask is certainly a challenge to sew with. It is very drapey and distorts easily. It is quite heavy weight-wise. The satin weave is dense, but but the singles linen with minimal interlacement can slide around the fabric, making it hard to cut without if unraveling. I traced each piece of pattern prior to cutting, and used a tricot zig-zag on either side of the cutting line to help keep the cut threads under control.
