2023 Noh Coat Challenge Update
You are invited to make a Noh Coat for the 2023 ANWG Conference in Bend, OR and join us in a spectacular expression of handwoven cloth. This is not a juried exhibit.
The Noh Coat challenge is based on the work of American fashion designer Bonnie Cashin. The challenge is to make the coat according to the pattern in Threads Magazine (Oct/Nov 1990, No.31). Cashin created many variations of what began as a basic kimono shape. The version we are making is simple and does not require great sewing skills. This pattern is perfect for showing off handwoven cloth.
There are only two rules: 1) Be true to the design. You can shorten the coat, you can line it, and we welcome all forms of embellishment. 2) No commercial fabric on the outside.
Since the Noh Coat Challenge was announced, we have been inspired and excited by the response. We have received requests from all over the ANWG region and well beyond. This challenge is one that really brings us all together. The postponement of the ANWG conference to June 11-18, 2023, gives us more time to make a really great Noh Coat. Having said that, some of us are done!
Diana wove her coat in a modified summer & winter plaid in rayon/cotton on four shafts. She wove the binding on an inkle loom with a black rayon/cotton blend yarn with some gold metallic yarn for a bit of sparkle.
Jannie, inspired by the big plaid of the fabric used in the original pattern, designed a special plaid of her own: 20 shafts, three different point twills and four colors. She chose Ultrasuede for the binding as a nod to spirit of the original Noh Coat design.
Janice stayed away from plaid and designed an attractive color stripe gradation. The fabric is woven in plain weave with 16/2 mercerized cotton alternating with variegated hand dyed cotton rayon and the weft in 16/2 mercerized cotton.
And for those of you who are not keen on the design, think beyond the coat! Weave your fabric, make your Noh coat, show it off at the conference, and then go home and tweak it a bit: add patch pockets, make set-in sleeves, take in the sides a bit. Think of it as an organic project that will transform over time.
But first let us admire your coat, in all its drapey swishiness. It will be a grand day when we all meet up wearing our coats. For information on this project, contact Toby at tobysmith.3920@gmail.com or Isabelle at ifusey@telus.net.
Visit the 2023 ANWG Conference website often for new information. https://anwgconference.org/archive/2023/